![]() It prints great for a while and then stops extruding.Īt first I thought my nozzle was clogging, but after messing around with it some more I'm pretty sure that's not the case as I can't extrude after a jam, but if I manually pull the material out and feed it back in it's fine for a few more minutes. This happened three times so I switched to a newer roll of 3DSolutech PLA (200C hotend) and saw the same issue as with the Raptor PLA. I then switched to some old MakerGeeks Raptor PLA (235C hotend) and started to have issues with the extrusion stopping suddenly a few hours into a print. After the upgrade I printed for about 20 hours using PETG without any issues (240C hotend). If none of these steps has solved your issues contact with a picture of your setup and a description of the symptoms you are seeing along with your order number.I just upgraded my AM8 with a Hemera hotend and I'm running into some trouble with extruding PLA. To check to see if your motor is incorrectly wired please follow step 10 within the following guide: If your motors are making buzzing or clicking sounds, not rotating freely or in the wrong direction it may be that the motor is wired incorrectly. Motors and printer boards wiring of the coil pair orders often vary.Check you have the motor wired correctly. Do not exceed a retraction length of 2mm, this will cause the molten filament to be pulled into the cold section of the heatbreak and will most likely cause jams.Ħ.If stringing and blobbing persist despite the temperature and retraction tweaking then you should look at the filament you are using, in the first instance dry out your filament, and or consider a different brand.If you still experience stringing or blobbing at 2mm reduce the printing temperature and start again. We recommend starting with a retraction value of 0.5mm which can be incrementally increased up to 2mm if you experience stinging or blobbing.Check you have a suitable retraction setting. Hemera units are shipped out with minimal idler tension, we recommend having the idler tension set in a manner where the white spring block is flush with the Idler body, for a clearer picture of this please see steps 17&18 of the main assembly guide: ĥ. ![]() We have a guide on the VREF values for the most common stepper drivers on the market currently that can be found here:.In order for Hemera to operate effectively at the correct torque level. The Hemera stepper motor in all likelihood has a different current rating than the previous motor your printer was using.Check you have adjusted your VREF/ configured the correct amount of current the motor is being provided. Also, make sure before you do the E steps Calibration that you have activated relative mode.ģ.If you are entering the E step value via Gcode make sure you are following up with an M500 command in order to ensure the new settings are being saved to the Eprom.In order to get an ideal step per mm value, you will need to fine-tune these settings, a 100mm extrusion test is the best method of doing this.Whilst we state an E-steps parameter of 409 steps per mm, be advised that this is based on a microstepping value of 1/16, if you are using a different microstepping value your E-steps value will be different.If you are not familiar with which settings you need to change please see: Firmware modification is not an optional step, in order for your Hemera unit to work effectively you must make the outlined firmware modifications.Here are a few quick troubleshooting steps before contacting support in regards to issues you may be having with Hemera.
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